Surf beaches in and around Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro is part of the yearly schedule of the surfing world championship. The Vivo Rio Pro takes place every June and brings the best of the best together on the beach in Saquarema. It’s not exactly in the city Rio de Janeiro, but in the state and only about 100km away. It’s good enough to justify Rio as one of the top surf destinations in the world. And there are plenty of surf breaks in the city too.
Ipanema and Arpoador
One of the most popular surf spots in Rio is at Arpoador, the rock that separates Ipanema from Copacabana. There are plenty of surf schools and hires around and the spot is loved by tourists and locals alike. You can usually surf there at any point of the tide, however, the conditions are usually best in the mornings. The tidal differences aren’t that much; it might be though that at times, the high tide brings in too much water and there won’t be any waves. That happens rarely though.
Throughout her time in Rio, Charlie has seen Arpoador bring beginner friendly mini waves up to double overhead. When looking at the forecast, you can always expect the waves to be a bit bigger than what the forecast says. And if they are too big at Arpoador, they usually get smaller all along the beaches of Ipanema and Leblon. You might find a smaller wave further down there.
Charlie took lessons with Team Bispo who take on students from beginner to advanced level and also have boards of any shape and size. They set up a tent on the beach where you can leave your belongings safely during the lesson.
There are also usually a few surf photographers at Arpoador and you can easily purchase your favourite pictures online after the session.
In this article:
- Ipanema and Arpoador
- São Conrado and Joatinga
- Barra da Tijuca and Recreio
- Copacabana and Leme
- Saquarema
- Cabo Frio and Arraial do Cabo
- Tropical surf destination or wetsuit conditions?
Surf school recommendation:
São Conrado and Joatinga
The next bay after Leblon and Vidigal is São Conrado. The beach there is a lot quieter than Ipanema and there are a few barracas and restaurants. The wave there gets heavy though and Charlie has seen it barrelling. It is a dream for experienced surfers!
Charlie did not see any surf schools of hire places there.
The next bay from there and on the way to Barra da Tijuca is Joatinga which is not only a popular destination for surfers. The beach is in a small bay and certainly worth a visit, even without a board. You can take an Uber to the parking lot and then walk down the path to the beach. As far as Charlie could see, there is no surf hire at Joatinga.
Barra da Tijuca and Recreio
There are breaks all the way from posto 1 at the beginning of Barra da Tijuca down to posto 12 at Recreio dos Bandeirantes. The most popular spot is certainly at Recreio – to either side of the rock Pedra do Pontal. The beach gets as busy as Ipanema with plenty of barracas and umbrellas. There are also surf schools and surf hire available.
There are multiple breaks all along this beach that provide left- and right-handers and the waves are ridden by longboarders and short boarders alike.
For a quieter experience, there is Praia Macumba right next to it – only separated by another rock.
Copacabana and Leme
The beaches of Copacabana and Leme aren’t suitable for surfing as they rarely get waves, however, they are very popular for paddleboarding, especially for the sunrise. If you want to join a sunrise tour, it is best to book this in advance, either online or directly at one of the tents along the beach where they offer SUP hire and tours all day long. This sunrise tour is also suitable for beginners, as long as you’re able to get up early. Start is at 4 a.m. near posto 5.
Saquarema
They call this place, and the beach of Itaúna in particular, the “Maracana do Surf” and that is for a good reason. It really is the place to be if you are into surfing. It seems as if the entire town has been built around it and there are a few surf schools and hires near the beach. Similar to Recreio, it is a beach with multiple breaks and provides waves to the left and the right, and it is enjoyed by longboarders and shortboarders. For anybody wanting surf lessons, Charlie recommends Saquarema Surf School. The owner Anderson Silva teaches surfers at any level.
There are plenty of options for accommodation for any budget near or even directly on the beach as well as restaurants and bars the give off proper surf vibes.
There’s an annual stop on the WSL CT in June in Saquarema and the locals are proud of having the world’s surfing elite return to this spot every year. There are other surf competitions held there throughout the year too. Charlie attended a competition in March called Aloha Spirit and Triplice Coroa.
You can get to Saquarema by coach from Rio which takes about 2.5 hours. You should buy the ticket for autoviacao1001 in advance. From the bus station in Saquarema, it is a 20-minute walk to Itaúna beach or a 5-minute ride by Uber which is easily available in the area.
Cabo Frio and Arraial do Cabo
Between Saquarema and the popular destination Buzios, is another place that is worth a visit: Cabo Frio and Arraial do Cabo. Both offer good surf conditions, however, don’t have the same kind of surf scene as Saquarema does. Charlie only surfed in Arraial do Cabo where the waves were significantly smaller than in Saquarema and perfect to practice technique.
Apart from surfing, there are a few beaches in the area that all have completely different vibes. Some are a bit difficult to get to – you might need to hike or take a boat. Charlie enjoyed the hike around the peninsula and the turquoise waters there. Popular destinations are Praia do Pontal do Atalaia (you can get there by car or taxi) and Praia do Farol on the neighbouring island that you can only get to by boat. Those are not surf beaches though. There is Praia Brava as a quiet surf beach. You can only get there via a long staircase. It’s a surf session that you have to earn.
Tropical surf destination or wetsuit conditions?
When you see photos of the beach bums in Rio de Janeiro, you would think that surfing in a bikini is fine. That is true in January and February – the hottest months in the year. However, the water is chilly and it gets colder from mid-March onwards. In March, Charlie still wore a shorty wetsuit (2mm), which was enough, but already felt a bit chilly on some days. There were also still people surfing in board shorts or bikinis, but there were people in long wetsuits too. If Charlie had had the option, she would have gone for a long wetsuit too and she probably would have even worn neoprene socks by the end of March. It depends on how sensitive you are to cold water and whether the sun is out or not; if in doubt, rather wear a bit more neoprene as the water does get cold in the winter months.
