Beach destination in Oaxaca
The name, Puerto Escondido, means “hidden port” in English. However, it is anything but hidden these days and has become one of the most popular destinations for surfers and digital nomads. There are multiple flights from Mexico City per day and even directs flights from the US a few times a week. From the airport it is only a 15-minute drive into the town with around 30.000 inhabitants.
How to get around in Puerto Escondido
Puerto Escondido is bigger than Charlie expected and a drive from one end to the other easily takes 20 minutes. That’s why most visitors hire a scooter or ATV for the duration of their stay. The main road has characteristics of a highway, whereas the sandy and bumpy character of the side roads closer to the beach makes an ATV attractive.
There is a so-called colectivo that goes along the main road. It is a small van that you can stop along the road. A ride costs MXN 15 (approximately GBP 0.65) and easily gets you to the other side of town. There is no Uber in Puerto Escondido, but you can easily get a taxi anywhere. A ride from Tamarindos to Carrizalillo costs MXN 150 (approximately GBP 6.50), from Tamarindos to the airport MXN 250 (approximately GBP 11). A shared shuttle from the airport costs about half of that, but Charlie wouldn’t take it again. On her way from the airport, she was dropped off near the main road and had to walk to her accommodation. For the return journey, the shuttle provider did not confirm the pick-up time, and Charlie could not reach them. She took a taxi to the airport instead.
Surf beaches in and around Puerto Escondido
If there is one thing Puerto Escondido is known for, it’s the famous barrelling wave: Zicatela. It is an impressive wave to watch, and Charlie couldn’t believe how many surfers were in the water with the ability to catch that wave. The current there is so strong that they prefer to surf without a leash. The wave breaks to the left and the right depending on where you decide to ride it.
At the southern end of the bay is La Punta. The long left-hander is a bit friendlier than the wave at Zicatela, but not for beginners either. On small days, surf schools do lessons close to the shore. Experienced surfers ride it in front of the rock and all the way to the beach.
Two bays further north of Zicatela and near the neighbourhood Rinconada is the beach Carrizalillo. The bay is smaller and so are the waves. They are more suitable for less experienced surfers. There is a point break on either side of the bay, and therefore you find a left- and a right-hander. The latter breaks over shallow rocks which makes it a bit dangerous. The biggest challenge here are the many stairs to walk down to the beach. Most of the surf schools do lessons in Carrizalillo and there is a surf rental on the beach as well.
There are more surf breaks along the coast to either side of Puerto Escondido. Further north, there are Roca Blanca, Cerro Hermoso and Chacahua, in the south you find the spots Plataforma and San Agustinillo.
Learning to surf in Puerto Escondido
There are multiple surf schools at La Punta and in Rinconada. Charlie had lessons with Esmeralda Surf School. They are based in Rinconada but drive to different spots depending on the conditions and the level of the student. The surf instructor Julio usually picked Charlie up from her accommodation and they drove to the spot of the day. The lessons were tailored to her level, and Julio had quickly identified what she needed to work on to take her surfing to the next level.
What Charlie liked the most is that they even drove a bit further to get the best waves. As part of a normal lesson, they drove as far as Roca Blanca to surf a right-hander. Together with other students and some friends of the surf instructors, they also did a day trip to a lesser known, very long right-hander near Huatulco. Esmeralda Surf School certainly made sure that Charlie would get the best surf experience in Puerto Escondido.
Ventanilla, Mazunte and Zipolite
Not surf beaches, but beautiful destinations for a day trip are Mazunte and Zipolite. And on the way there, a stop in Ventanilla shouldn’t be missed. There, you can take a small boat into the mangroves to spot turtles, crocodiles and green iguanas. Mazunte is a small beach town with shops and cafés and a beautiful beach for swimming or sunbathing.
Zipolite is a famous tourist destination, and the beach deserves to be seen. It is popular though for another reason: it is the only nudist beach in Mexico. You won’t be judged if you keep your swimsuit on. At the southern end of Zipolite, you can take the stairs and get to a smaller beach, Playa del Amor. If you want to take your clothes off, you’ll have a bit more privacy there.
Sunsets and viewpoints
The sunsets in Puerto Escondido are something very special because the sun turns into a dark red ball in the late afternoon. This shade seems to be unique for the coast of Oaxaca. That is not only Charlie’s observation but has been confirmed by several other travellers she met. The best place to watch the sunset in Puerto Escondido is from La Punta where it slowly sets behind the surfers.
Another popular place at that time of day is a viewpoint near Carrizalillo, the Mirador de las Tortugas. There is a bar and you can take a seat near the cliff overlooking a beach.
Sunsets in Puerto Escondido aren’t always guaranteed. Often, the horizon gets cloudy in the late afternoon making the sun disappear early.
If you are going to Mazunte, you should time it well to visit Punta Cometa at sunset. It is a nature reserve on a headland. There are a few trails that all lead to good sunset spots. Charlie took the shorter trail, mostly because there were less people going that way, and sat down in a place where she could see the beach Playa Mermejita. The sun was setting in the distance behind a rock that gave Ventanilla (translated “small window”) its name.
Horse riding and thermal baths
It can be a beach activity, but it doesn’t have to be. Either way, it is another popular experience in Puerto Escondido. You can go horse riding along the beach, at sunset if you want, or you can ride along and through a nearby river to explore the nature and the mountains. That route leads to the hot springs that have been converted into thermal baths. After the trip to Tolantongo, Charlie was sceptical about this tour. Was this a tourist trap? When they arrived by horse, she realized that this was not necessary. There was nobody else there. She could work her way through the different pools that all had a different temperature at her own pace.
Accommodation in Puerto Escondido
Puerto Escondido is a touristy place, and it is not difficult to find accommodation for any budget, from party hostels to high-end hotels. There are multiple colivings and hotels with coworking facilities too. The hardest decision will be the location, and it depends on the activities you plan to do. Charlie stayed at Surfbreak Coliving in Tamarindos which was in a good location half-way between La Punta and Zicatela. It felt quite far though from Carrizalillo which was a 15-minute drive away.
