Pipa
Brazilian surf paradise through the lens of a digital nomad
Pipa is so small that not even Brazilians in other parts of the country know about it. Whenever Charlie said that she would travel to Pipa, she only got faces with question marks. When she mentioned Natal, people understood where she was about to travel to.
As such, one might think that it is a hidden gem and that is true in some respects. Once you’re there though, you’ll notice that it is not so hidden anymore. Tourism seems to be the main economic driver of Pipa, and you find tourist accommodation all over the town. Most of the hotels and guest houses however seemed to be quite empty when Charlie was there in the month of April. Along the beaches though, it seemed to be busy. One could still easily find a table in one of the restaurants, but it certainly did not seem to be a hidden gem.
Pipa for digital nomads
Charlie became aware of Pipa through one of the several digital nomad communities that she is a member of. It had been the place of several digital nomad pop-up villages in recent years. Once she heard that it is also good for surfing, she was convinced.
Because it was mostly pop-up villages, there is no permanent digital nomad community in Pipa, or at least not one that Charlie was able to find. On the other hand, her AirBnB host was surprised that she wasn’t staying for a few months as that seems to be the norm.
It was not difficult for Charlie to find a decent internet connection and laptop-friendly cafes and restaurants in Pipa. There is also a tech shop in the centre where you could get some essentials. And there are a few coin laundries and laundry services all over town.
Most of the socializing for Charlie happened at the surf school by the beach. She easily connected with other travellers who had stopped by for a surf lesson and a bowl of Açaí. Because Charlie was hanging out there a lot (the surf school also had a library and good WiFi), she also connected with the locals who were working there and was promptly invited for BBQ and bonfire nights. Keep in mind though that this was only possible because Charlie spoke a sufficient level of Portuguese.
Surfing in Pipa
Charlie was mostly surfing at Praia do Amor, the main surf beach in Pipa. She initially took some surf lessons with Barreling Surfschool to get to know the spot and then moved on to board hire at the same surf school. The level of teaching was top-notch, and Charlie saw many students improve a lot during her time there. They have an outdoor gym on the beach with plenty of options for weight and balance training. They also have different types of boards available for lessons and hire, from beginner-friendly foamies to performance boards. There’s also an Açaí bar and a book shelf that invites to hang out there a little longer after your surf session and dive into a good book (there are books in several languages).
Praia do Amor
Praia do Amor is a beach break and not an easy spot to surf. There are lefts and rights. At low-tide the waves get steep and dumpy which is why Charlie usually surfed at high-tide. It is surfable though at all times and the waves are breaking quite close to shore. In this spot, Charlie would not have needed the big lens for her surf photography.
The wave was most challenging in the centre of the beach. That’s also where you see all the experienced surfers. Charlie usually surfed right in front of Barreling Surfschool where the wave bounces off of some rocks which makes it a bit more predictable. There is a strong current towards North and if you’re not paying attention, you easily drift towards the centre of the beach.
All the beaches in Pipa are at the bottom of a cliff and you need to know how to get there. For Praia do Amor, there is one main staircase closer to the northern end of the beach. If you follow Google Maps to the “Placa do Amor”, you will find this staircase. There is another staircase in the middle of the beach which is mostly frequented by the guests of the Hotel da Pipa, and there is another one at the southern end, near the Chapadão cliff, that you can reach by passing through the entrance of Tapiocaria do Amo.
Praia Central
If you’re in the town centre of Pipa, you will easily spot and find the way to the Praia do Centro. There is surfing too, and you can see the sunset from there. You will find several bars and restaurants along that beach that are open until late at night. The bars and restaurants at Praia do Amor are mostly small cabins that close at sunset (or when the tide gets too high). You can get to Praia Central from Praia do Amor during low tide. However, you might have to climb over a few rocks. It is easier to take the stairs up to the town centre and then descend again on the other side.
Praia do Madeiro
In between Pipa and the town of Tibau do Sul is another popular beach, for surfing and also eating, drinking and day-time partying. It is a lot busier than Praia do Amor and you can expect loud music blasting from several of the bars.
Praia do Madeiro has a perfect right-hander longboarding-wave at a point break. It is a really long and fun-looking wave that works best at mid-to-low-tide. There is a beach break too in the centre of the beach with waves to both sides. There are surf hire places on Madeiro beach, and you also find a taxi stand at the top of the staircase that connects the beach to the street. If you have a car hired, you can drive there and there is parking available too.
Santuario Ecologico
Just a bit outside of Pipa and on the way to Madeiro beach is the Santuario Ecológico, a nature reserve that offers some easy walking trails and the best views over several of the beaches around Pipa. It is best to get there by taxi. There is parking too, however, if you drive yourself, you will have to walk back to the car. If you take a taxi, you can enter the Santuario Ecologico through the main entrance, do the trails as you please and finish at Madeiro Beach.
There are different trails available, and you will get a map at the entrance. All of the trails are easy to walk, and you don’t need any special footwear. Charlie did the whole loop of trails, and it took a little under 2 hours, including scenic stops. The entrance fee is BRL 20.
There are several viewpoints along the trail where you can admire the different beaches from the top of the cliffs. You won’t be able to descend to any of the beaches until the end of the trail where you reach Madeiro beach.
There is also a labyrinth for kids and an outdoor exhibition to learn about sea turtles and the area. You will also find picknick tables at the end of the trail near the staircase that leads to Madeiro beach.
Jeep tour from Pipa
When it comes to tours and day trips, it’s boat trips, buggy and ATV tours as well as jeep tours. Charlie did the latter and she did not regret her decision. It was the best way to see the surroundings of Pipa.
They first drove to the Chapadão, the cliff at the Southern end of Amor Beach. From there, they drove further along the beaches that are protected due to sea turtle nesting towards Sibaúma.
In Sibaúma, you find more beaches and at low tide, the sea becomes a natural pool with a rare type of waterfall that is caused by the waves crashing into a rock. At high tide, you can enjoy a viewpoint to see sea turtles. (If you’ve been surfing in Pipa, you probably have seen them already.)
After the bathing stop in Sibaúma, they drove off-road to Barra da Cunhaú. At high tide, they would have taken a boat there to cross the river to the beach Praia da Restinga. It was low tide though and the boats weren’t crossing. They spent a little more time at Madeiro Beach instead later that day.
The lunch break was at a horse farm called Camarão da Fazenda where they could have done horse riding, kayaking or played volleyball. Charlie enjoyed her lunch and got a rest in one of the hammocks instead.
Towards the end of the day and after the stop at Madeiro Beach, they had the chance to try sandboarding at the dune of Cacimbinhas. Charlie had done that before in Florianopolis and wasn’t too keen to roll through the sand again. It is a great opportunity though to give it a try if you haven’t done it before. It was included in the price for the day tour.
They finished the day off with a stunning sunset over the Lagoa Guaraíras near Tibau do Sul before everybody was brought back to their accommodations in Pipa.
How to get to Pipa
Pipa is around 1.5 hours south of Natal. If you’re flying, it is best to fly into Natal and arrange a transfer from there. It comes to approximately USD 50. Charlie booked the transfer with passeiosempipa and there was easy communication via WhatsApp.
There is a public bus too from the centre of Natal to Pipa. Charlie has taken this bus once when she had to get to Natal to solve an issue with her laptop. You can either take it from the main bus station in Natal or from a bus stop at a large Carrefour. For Charlie the latter was better as she was in the centre of Natal already. From the airport in Natal, you can easily get an Uber into town. The bus between Natal and Pipa costs BRL 27 each way and you will need cash. You either pay with an agent at the bus stop or with the one inside the bus, not with the driver. The bus ride takes a little over two hours.
Once you’re in Pipa, you can get to most places by foot. However, the roads are steep and uneven. You can also hire a scooter or a car in Pipa to venture out a bit more. Uber is very limited in Pipa, and you are better off taking one of the official taxis. You will see them easily in the streets. You can contact them via WhatsApp on their website too to arrange a transfer.
Accommodation in Pipa
Pipa is quite a touristy place, and it is easy to find accommodation there, from AirBnBs (also for long-term stays), budget-friendly guesthouses to luxurious resorts. Charlie stayed originally for three weeks and had chosen the Pousada Morada dos Ventos as this was one of the hotels that had previously hosted a digital nomad village, and the rooms were small flats with a kitchen and a desk. It seemed very suitable for a digital nomad, and it was a good price. When Charlie extended her stay, she booked an AirBnB which was easy to find, more budget-friendly and there was availability at short notice. Charlie was in Pipa at the end of March and into late April. At that time of year, there seemed to be a lot of vacancies everywhere.
Eating out, parties and nightlife in Pipa
The town centre around the Praça do Pescador becomes a very lively area every night. You find pop-up cocktail bars in the streets and there are plenty of bars and restaurants. The choice is overwhelming. It might also give the impression that the roads are pedestrianized at night because there are just so many people. Be aware though, that cars are still occasionally passing through.
A lot of the restaurants are hidden inside passages and if you don’t know that, you might have trouble finding it. The passages on their own are worth a visit as they are beautifully decorated and designed. When it comes to cuisine, you find a lot of Italian restaurants and Burger places. There are a few steakhouses and Sushi restaurants as well. If you are looking for something traditionally Brazilian, you might have to look a bit harder.
Every Friday night, there is the so-called “eco-feira” happening at the Praça do Pescador. There you can buy some artisanal and eco-friendly products and food. Charlie treated herself to a bottle of Kombucha and a natural face cream.
If you walk a bit further along the main road, you reach another small market, the artisan market, which happens every night after 5 p.m.
Toward the other side (closer to the main supermarket Atacarejo), are two bars that turn into night clubs at a later hour: Taipa and Arandi. There are different styles of music every night from Reggae to Forro, Funk, Salsa and Bachata. It is best to follow them on Instagram to find out what’s on every night.
If you are after some more surfy vibes in the evenings, check out Layback. There is a skate bowl that is frequented by surfskaters in the evenings. You can get food and drinks there too and there is often live music or a DJ.
If you are into electronic music, you shouldn’t miss the Pipa Boat Party either. It takes place on the weekends in the afternoon until sunset in Tibau do Sul. They sometimes do specials with different styles of music. It is worth following them on Instagram to find out what’s on. You’ll have to reach out via WhatsApp to get a ticket.
