Tortuguero National Park

Tortuguero National Park

Tropical rainforest surrounded by water

There are plenty of national parks in Costa Rica, some of which are more accessible, others less. Most tourists go to Manuel Antonio and that is exactly the problem: everybody is there. Charlie was recommended not to go. There are two that seem to be just touristy enough to get there easily, but not as touristy that they would use authenticity or charme: Corcovado on the Pacific side and Tortuguero on the Caribbean side.

How to get to Tortuguero National Park

The easiest way to get to Tortuguero is to book a trip from San José. Everything will be taken care of. Alternatively, there are organized multi-day trips from several places in Costa Rica. That would have been too easy for Charlie. She’s not one for package trips.

After a few days in Puerto Viejo, Charlie stayed in the town of Limón and was hoping to get to Tortuguero from there. This however, turned out to be more difficult than anticipated, simply because the information is not easily accessible. One of the locals had recommended for Charlie to get to Moín and take a boat to Tortuguero from there. Several websites mentioned that a ticket should be bought in advance and Charlie was able to source one website that sold tickets online, Pavona Jungle Expeditions. (They also do trips from the other side, Pavona, into Tortuguero.) She paid USD 39 each way.

She later found that once you had booked accommodation in Tortuguero, they will contact you with transfer options and trips in Tortuguero.

The boat was scheduled to leave Moín at 10 a.m. and she was supposed to arrive in Tortuguero at 1 p.m. The taxi ride from the AirBnB in Limón only took 10 minutes and cost 5000CRC (approximately USD 10). The boat was a bit late and they finally left at 10.45 to arrive in Tortuguero at 2 p.m.

A boat trip into the jungle

The trip to Tortuguero itself is already an adventure. Shortly after leaving the dock, you’ll feel immersed in nature and you can spot all the fauna. The boat drives quite fast so it can be difficult to capture a photo. The driver stops though and turns the boat around upon the sighting of monkeys or sloths so that everybody can get a picture.

There are some smaller settlements along the canals, but it is mostly nature. Don’t expect to have signal on your phone!

The barge Charlie was on was quite narrow and really bend into each turn. The driver ensures good weight distribution so there is no risk of capsizing, it feels a bit adventurous though at times.

Charlie had to return the next morning with the boat at 7 a.m. which was perfectly on time and one of the cafés at the dock was already open at that time serving coffee and pastries. If your hotel doesn’t offer breakfast that early, you’re sorted!

Alternative ways to get to Tortuguero

The easiest and worry-free way to get to Tortuguero is with a package trip from San José or Puerto Viejo. Charlie took a taxi from Limón to Moín and a boat from there. There are other ways though to get to Tortuguero:

1. Book your accommodation and let them contact you about transfer options.
2. Drive or bus to La Pavona and a boat from there: convenient if you are coming from San José or La Fortuna. Shorter ride than from Moín and less expensive.
3. Drive or bus to Caño Blanco (Parismina) and a boat from there: Mostly used by specific hotels and shuttle transfers.
4. Flight by Sansa to Tortuguero and a short boat ride.

Charlie noticed that none of the boats was full. There probably would have been the option to buy a last-minute ticket at the dock. You can bring luggage on board and there are no restrictions. The boat Charlie was on even transported an air conditioning for one of the restaurants. You should wrap your luggage though in something weather proof as it might be pouring down during the journey.

Tortuguero Village

When Charlie arrived, she was surprised to see a real village. On the map, the place seemed so remote that she expected only a few guest houses. What she saw was more than expected. There are several restaurants and cafés along the waterfront towards the canals followed by houses of which some are tourist accommodation, most are where the locals live. One of them explained Charlie that this was one of the rare places where locals live in the same area as the tourists. Charlie saw kids playing football in front of the houses and some ladies chatting in front of a convenience store. There was also police walking around. At the other end of those houses is the beach.

Charlie had dinner at a restaurant right by the boat dock called Tree Coffee House which offered a magnificent view over the canals and the sunset.

Accommodation in Tortuguero

Charlie had noticed quite late that the journey to Tortuguero was too long to make it there and back in one day. An overnight stay was required and even two days before, there were plenty of rooms available, from budget-friendly hostels to hotels. You won’t find resorts though. They are all a short walk from the boat dock. Once you booked your accommodation, they will likely contact you with offers for shuttle transfers and tours in Tortuguero.

Visiting Tortuguero

Once you get off the boat at the village, you will see a few options for tours and activities. The most popular tour (and one you can’t easily do anywhere else) is a canoe or boat tour into the national park. There are also guided hikes, turtle watching and night walks available. Charlie had booked a canoe tour with Don Chico Tours and that turned out to be the best option to see some wildlife. The canoe is quieter and smaller than the power boats and they were able to get into some narrow canals. The guide, Ruben, pointed it out whenever he spotted an animal. Charlie saw monkeys, green macaws, a caiman, several birds and even the dorsal fin of a dolphin. She was made aware that at night, jaguars sometimes enter the village of Tortuguero. Apparently, they aren’t dangerous though.

How much time to plan for Tortuguero

It will take half a day to get there and to return, so should at least stay for one night. To make the most of it, stay two or three nights. That will give you enough time for a boat trip and a hike into the national park and an evening activity like a night walk or or turtle watching. You could also book a fishing trip or hire a kayak.

Frequently Asked Questions about Tortuguero National Park