Sámara
Beach town for surfers and digital nomads
Sámara is a small town on the Nicoya peninsula, about halfway between Tamarindo and Santa Teresa, and south of Nosara. Sámara is small, but offers everything you need: bars, cafés and restaurants, multiple supermarkets, a Saturday market, yoga classes on every corner, a coworking space and a varied nightlife ranging from Bachata classes to live music and jungle raves. Everything in Sámara is within walking distance.
There are a few hostels in the centre and you find hotels of any size and for any budget. The town is very touristy whilst maintaining an authentic character. Locals mingle with tourists and expats. When Charlie was there, she noticed a lot of construction work in all directions. Sámara seemed to be expanding and there were graffiti at the entrance of town complaining about gentrification. It remains to be seen how much of the authentic character will pass the test of time.
How to get to Sámara
There is one main road that leads from Nicoya into Sámara. Charlie travelled with Interbus, a shuttle service, from San José. This shuttle is made for tourists and they pick you up at your accommodation and drop you off where you need to be. It took about 5 hours on the way to Sámara. The return journey took a bit longer because of a road closure and the wait times for the ferry across the bay of Nicoya.
Opposite the bus stop in Sámara is a ticket office for TIG – a daily public bus to San José. It is the cheapest option, but leaves at 4 a.m. already. You’d have to get up early.
There are also daily shuttles from the airport in Liberia and a regular bus from Nicoya with Traroc.
Surfing in Sámara
Sámara is on the pacific coast in a bay. As such, it does get the swell from the ocean and offers small waves that are perfect for beginners and those wanting to refine their longboarding technique. The waves were the most beginner-friendly Charlie saw in all of Costa Rica.
The best time is about one hour before high tide. The sea is mostly flat at low tide.
You can hire boards directly on the beach for USD 6-10 per hour.
Yoga in Sámara
There is a vast choice of yoga classes available in Sámara. Charlie took a few classes at Tico Adventure Lodge which has an outdoor yoga shala in between the trees. It almost feels like a tree house and reminded Charlie of the yoga studio in Dominical. They also offer Barre and Pilates classes. Other than in Santa Teresa, there seemed to be lots of regulars and fewer tourists in the classes. It had a friendly feel and Charlie was welcomed warmly by the teachers and other yogis.
Charlie took one class at One Love Yoga in the centre of town where they also offer free community classes. It is an indoor studio that has been beautifully painted in symbols of yogic philosophy and mantras in different colours. The classes at One Love focus less on the physical aspects of Yoga than the spiritual side. They also offer soundbaths, aromatherapy and healing circles. It has a different vibe than many other modern Yoga studios.
You can also find daily classes on the beach in Sámara for Yoga and Pilates.
Digital nomads in Sámara
Sámara felt like the most nomad-friendly place in Costa Rica. There is a coworking space, Locoworking, in town, plenty of coffee shops with good Wifi and it is easier to find budget-friendly accommodation than in other places in Costa Rica.
Charlie also had the feeling that there are more people in Sámara staying for longer so you can form bonds and make connections.
Charlie liked working from Marea Surf Shop and Café Malehu. The latter has two places in town, one is a bit bigger with proper tables. She also saw people working from Gusto, a restaurant right on the beach.
The coworking space, Locoworking, is in a colonial-style building with a bakery downstairs. Breakfast and lunch are sorted! You don’t need to book in advance and can just show up. They offer hourly, daily, weekly and monthly passes. If you are interested in any tours, they can also connect you to their partners and get you a good deal or a group trip with fellow digital nomads.
Activities and day trips from Sámara
Being right on the beach, water activities are the first that come to mind. You could start the day with a fishing tour and to see dolphins in the morning, snorkel at Chora island at lunch time, surf, kayak or SUP in the afternoon and join a Catamaran tour at sunset. If you prefer to watch the golden hour from the beach, horse riding might be a good option for you.
There are guided hikes available to the nearby mountains offering stunning views over the coast and its bays.
About 30 minutes further inland from Sámara are some waterfalls. Charlie went to La Roca waterfall. There is a restaurant with views over the mountains directly on the main road. From there it is a 15-minute walk to three small waterfalls. Another popular destination is the Belen waterfall which might get busy though with tourists. At La Roca, Charlie had the place to herself.
Charlie’s favourite day trip from Sámara was the boat tour with Leo Tours which included fishing, dolphin watching and snorkelling. She had never seen so many dolphins in one place before. She didn’t even know in which direction to point the camera first. It was magical!
The fishing attempt was unsuccessful, however, she got to see a giant sea turtle whilst snorkeling at Chora Island.
At sunset you can do a Catamaran tour or a horseback riding trip. From Sámara beach though, the sun sets behind the headland as the bay isn’t facing exactly west. If you want to enjoy the sunset from the beach, you better head to another bay further North, Playa Buena Vista.
Other beaches around Sámara
North of Sámara are multiple bays, the first of them has a tiny beach that you can only access on foot over a small mountain. There is a staircase leading down to this beach. Be careful though as the stairs aren’t well maintained.
Further along a dusty road, you can reach Playa Buena Vista which offers a good view at the sunset. There are horseback riding trips to this beach and it is accessible by car. This beach is usually quiet. With the construction of new houses though, Sámara is expanding into that direction and the beach might become more popular in the next few years.
Further up North and via challenging dirt roads are the beach Playa Barrigona and Playa Barco Quebrada. Barrigona is popular amongst the locals and you will see them get out their picknick tables on the beach. Barco Quebrada is quite remote and you’re better off with an all-terrain vehicle. As such, this beach is less frequented and you’ll find some quietness.
South of Sámara is another popular beach with a village and some hotels: Carrillo. It is very popular amongst the locals and you even see them put up their hammocks in between the palm trees. You could get to Carrillo by public transport from Sámara. The road is fully paved and suitable for cycling too, however there are some elevations.
Charlie even went a bit further South to Playa Zeluye, a small beach that you can’t see from the road. It is only a short-walk though from the road. At low tide, you can walk along the rocks to get a view along the coastline.
