Clovelly
One of the most unique villages in the world
It is a village thought to be around 2500 years old. Nobody really knows. There are signs that the Romans and the Celts used the bay as a harbour whilst a Celtic burial ground in its vicinity confirms certain theories. Up to the end of the 19th century, almost nobody in the area knew of the existence of this tiny fishing village.
Today, Clovelly is a tourist destination as one of the most unique villages in the world and a place where history and tradition remain at its heart. It feels as if time stood still.
Donkeys, sledges and cobble stones
The quay and many of the cottages in Clovelly date back to the 14th century and were renovated in the early 20th century. The initials “CH”, referring to Christine Hamlyn, are written on many of the white cottages that align along a steep cobbled path that leads down to the harbour.
It is too steep for any motorized vehicle and over centuries, donkeys and sledges were the common means of transport. Donkeys are no longer used for heavy loads, but for kids who wish to enjoy a ride on their visit to Clovelly.
Sledges are still widely used in Clovelly and you can see one in front of each house. If you’re not up for the steep return uphill at the end of your visit, there is a Landrover service at the harbour that brings visitors back to the parking lot outside of Clovelly.
On the way down towards the harbour you will pass an Inn, Tea Rooms and there is a pub right by the water – plenty of opportunities for tea or lunch. Charlie enjoyed a coffee at Cottage Tea Rooms and she took a seat in the so-called Secret Garden. Certainly an inspiring place with coastal views to inspire creativity.
Learning more about Clovelly
One author was certainly inspired by Clovelly: Charles Kingsley. He lived in the village as a child and returned often as an adult. He wrote “Westward Ho!” in Clovelly. Today, there is a museum dedicated to Kingsley in the village.
Next to the Kingsley Museum is the Fisherman’s Cottage where you can gain insights into the interior of a fisherman’s home of the past.
At the top of the hill and deliberately created outside the village is a visitor centre. You can watch a documentary about Clovelly and purchase some souvenirs. This visitor centre is the official entrance to Clovelly and you should pay your entrance fee there. That sounds unusual, but the estate of Clovelly is privately owned and the village could not have stood the test of time if it hadn’t been for tourism. The admission fees help with the maintenance of the village and keep it alive. It is £ 9.50 per adult and £5.50 per child (as of January 2025).
Coastal walks around Clovelly
Charlie came to Clovelly because she had spotted a waterfall on the map that she wanted to see. To get to the waterfall, you have to get down to the harbour of Clovelly and then walk a bit further up north on the beach. Charlie did get a paper map at the visitor centre which helped guide the way. They also handed Charlie another leaflet that presented some coastal walks from Clovelly: the Hobby Drive Walk and the Mouthmill Cove Walk.
Hobby Drive Walk
This walk leads further up north from Clovelly and starts at the crossing of paths between the visitor centre, the village and the donkey stables. There is a gate that is clearly marked as the start of the Hobby Drive.
The Hobby Drive is a wide as a road and easy to walk as it is mostly flat. It is a walk through the woods a bit further inland where you can still see the sea between the trees. After approximately 25 minutes you’ll reach a view point from where you can see the harbour of Clovelly. You can’t miss it as there are a few benches lined up waiting for you to take a seat and enjoy the views.
From there, the Hobby Drive leads further north and at some point you can access the South West Coastpath which then leads towards Peppercombe Beach and Westward Ho.
Mouthmill Cove Walk
This walk is part of the South West Coastpath between Clovelly and Hartland and it starts behind the donkey stables. You’ll walk in the opposite direction of the Hobby Drive a bit along the road, pass a carpark and you’ll see a gate on left of that carpark. It is marked with a sign for a woodlands walk towards Clovelly Court Gardens. Unless you want to head for those gardens, keep to the right and towards the coast and you’ll reach the coastpath. You’ll still be walking mostly through forest and you can see and hear the sea to your right. There are some stunning views every once in a while. Be sure to make a pause and take it in!
In between you’ll also get some great views of Clovelly Court towards your left and over the landscape, especially from Gallantry Bower. The ancient burial ground is also clearly marked by a sign at the gate before you enter. Up to this point, the path is mostly flat with some small elevations. From this point onwards, the path leads downhill and you should watch your step.
The path leads all the way down to Mouthmill Cove at the bottom. Once you’re at this beach, you can take in a great view of Black Church Rock. Before you get all the way down the beach, you could take a walk up to the right to a view point. There you could see the giant rock from above.
How to get to Clovelly
The best way to get to Clovelly is by car and there is a big car park in front of the visitor centre. There are busses passing by the visitor centre between Bideford and Hartland. However, they aren’t as frequent and you should plan your route well. Charlie came by bus from Bude, changed in Hartland and got off at the visitor centre. She had to wait for a while though between the closing time of the visitor centre and the arrival of the bus. In Hartland, the connection busses were waiting for each other. It is therefore unlikely that you’ll miss your connection.
You will also find a few options for accommodation in Clovelly if you prefer to stay overnight.
